When I turn my key to start position ignition switch fuse keeps blowing think It is labeled ign sw batt 2 under the hood. Would really appreciate some help. Do you. A simple trick to finding a short is to replace the blown fuse with a pair of spade terminals, then use small jumper wires to connect them to a twelve volt light bulb. A brake light bulb works well. When the circuit is live and the short is present, the bulb will be full brightness and hot so be sure it is not laying on the carpet or against a plastic door panel.
Now you can unplug electrical connectors and move things around to see what makes the short go away. When it does, the bulb will get dim or go out. The fuses on my wiring diagram are labelled differently so I'm not sure which circuit to look at. Can you find some items that are dead when this fuse is blown? What is the current rating of this fuse? Was this answer.
Thanks, will definitely try the light bulb test. I had not noticed anything not working since it just happened today and had to leave the car at work. My fans are wired to my fuse box and they usually turn on when the key is in start position, but not anymore since blown ignition fuse. It is a 30 amp maxi fuse. It sounds like you have the fan motor is shorting out causing the fuse to blow. Unplug the fan motors and retry, if the fuses don't blow you should replace the fan motor.
Try amazon they have them for cheap. Found out what the problem was just an exposed ground wire but thanks Was this answer.
Glad you could get it fixed please use 2CarPros. Please login or register to post a reply. Related Ignition Switch Key Content. Hello Car Gurus! I Have An Olds Alero, 2. Sponsored links. Ask a Car Question. It's Free!Im sorry to be a bother but I need some advice about this problem.
I have owned a 2. About three weeks ago the car just dies in the middle of the road,after inspecting the inside fuse box I noticed the ign mod fuse was blown. So put another fuse in it and it started up and ran for three weeks then the same thing happened again. I bought a new fuse put it in and now its running fine again. I looked for shorts and could find none, even messed with all the starter wires and battery wires while the car was running and still no problems.
I have noticed the fuse only blows once the car has been running for a while and once it blows it will do it every 8 to ten miles.
If I let the car cool down over night I will be able to drive 30 mins or so before the fuse blows again. The fuse never blows when I start the car tho. I has the ignition module tested and it came back bad so i replaced it and the, Ignition coils, spark plugs, spark Plug wires, and ignition switch.
I also has the battery, starter, and alternator checked and they had no problems. After I replaced all this stuff the car lasted a whopping day in a half and the fuse blew again. So I took the Ignition module off again had it tested and it was fried again.
I have checked every wire on this car inside and out and can find no shorts, bare wires or bad grounds. I have been working on this car for weeks now and and have put almost dollars in it. This is my last alternative before I take the gallon of gas and match option. Sorry for the length of this question. Thanks in advance. From an analysis viewpoint it is important to know whether the fuse is blowing because of an overload or a short circuit. For this reason, I suggest you monitor the current in that circuit.
If there is an intermittent short circuit you will have to locate and repair it to solve your problem. If the fuse is being overloaded, you may want to try using the next higher current rated fuse and see what happens e,g.
This procedure raises some safety concerns, but so does a car failing to operate. It is symptomatic of intermittent, high supply voltage delivered to IGN circuit. Reading up on the Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins is a good place to start. You can find info www.
Ignition switch fuse keeps blowing
Thanks I already found the problem. It ended up being the hot wire coming off the Ignition module. It was a really small bare spot, and was shorting out on the metal cover plate towards the back of the engine. Thanks anyways. New Post. Comments Format:. Subscribe to Discussion :. CR4 allows you to "subscribe" to a discussion so that you can be notified of new comments to the discussion via email. Rating Vote:. Score 1 Score 2 Score 3 Score 4 Score 5.
Add Vote.Fuses are current overload protection devices, specifically engineered to act as the weak link in an electrical circuit. A fuse keeps a circuit from passing excess current and destroying whatever's attached to it or melting the wires and starting a fire.
Automotive ignition fuse malfunctions pose a few unique problems, primarily since they're usually not the only thing on that circuit. Fuses come in all types and varieties, but they all work in a similar fashion. Current passes through the fuse via a small metal strip or a spring; that small metal strip creates a sort of bottleneck in the system, a point of high impedance where electricity will slow down and turn into heat.
Once that strip gets hot enough, it melts, snaps and breaks the circuit connection. So, to find the source of your problem, you'll need to look for an electrical short circuit that pulls more energy through the system than it was designed to handle.
The problem with automotive electrical troubleshooting is that multiple systems often run through the same circuit or fuse.
For instance, your ignition system might share its power source with the starter, fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition control computer or that flashing skull shifter knob you bought from Pep Boys. So, the malfunction might not even be in your ignition system; it could be a malfunction or short circuit in any of the connected systems.
The good news is that there aren't too many things in the ignition system itself that can blow your fuse, particularly if the the ignition coil draws its current directly from the battery or alternator via a relay. If that's the case, then your fault is almost certainly in the ignition switch itself or the wires going to it. Within the distributor itself, a bad or bypassed ballast resistor can repeatedly blow fuses, but that's unlikely unless some hack mechanic did a bad wiring job on it.
A bad coil might blow fuses, but it'll more than likely kill the engine before that happens. If your ignition system shares a common circuit with something motorized -- a fuel pump, cooling fans, power window motor, starter, etc. Electric motors always draw a certain amount of wattage, or amperage multiplied by voltage. Higher voltage makes the motor spin faster, more amperage causes it to produce more torque. If the motor seizes up or something forces it to slow down, voltage draw will drop and amperage draw will increase to maintain the same wattage.
This can easily blow a fuse, particularly if it's already heavily loaded by something as power-hungry as the ignition system. Inspect your wires carefully; hot parts on the engine can easily burn through the wiring's insulation and short the wires, and metal edges will cut through the wires and short them out.
If you've got fuel injection, then you might be experiencing an internal short in the computer itself. In that case, you're out of luck; it's off to the parts store or junkyard for a new computer. This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.
To submit your questions or ideas, or to simply learn more about It Still Runs, contact us. Ignition System Faults The good news is that there aren't too many things in the ignition system itself that can blow your fuse, particularly if the the ignition coil draws its current directly from the battery or alternator via a relay. Ancilliary Faults If your ignition system shares a common circuit with something motorized -- a fuel pump, cooling fans, power window motor, starter, etc.
Wiring and Computer Faults Inspect your wires carefully; hot parts on the engine can easily burn through the wiring's insulation and short the wires, and metal edges will cut through the wires and short them out.
About the Author This article was written by the It Still Runs team, copy edited and fact checked through a multi-point auditing system, in efforts to ensure our readers only receive the best information.By JiminypipitJuly 1, in Electrical. I have a Winnebago Vectra and have no power to the keyed volt white wire of my Trip Tec.
I decided to check the auto fuse panel along with the breaker panel. The fuses were good and no breakers were popped, so I removed the four screws holding the breaker panel in place.
Like a dope, I did not disconnect the battery, and while removing the pane,l I shorted something. Now I have no power to the ignition switch. I have checked all of the fuses, breakers, relays I can find. Brian asked some good questions. Not sure of this RV, but on mine If this breaker is tripped you will see a small red tab sticking out on the bottom. Push the tab back in and power will be restored. Thank you guys for your help.
Brian - I will check and get back to you as to power. When it shorted out there were some minor sparks that I saw at the panel, no smell and no smoke or flames. Rich - The model of my vectra is a S36GD. Bigdog - I have never seen a breaker like the one pictured but I will have a good look around to see what I can find. Thanks again. Good morning Jiminy, This is a link to much of the wiring information for your model. Read it over carefully. Then download what you need or think will help.
Page 71 of the information you can download pictures the power relay panel. At the time I have not found the connections and harness information or drawings for the ignition key Sw circuits.
The Battery disconnect relay circuit shows a 5 Amp fuse at the relay, so if you do not have any power when you toggle the circuit check for a bad fuse at the relay. Jiminy, after looking at all the wiring information listed for your coach, there are no drawings for the ignition circuit other then a block diagram. So I think you will need to get the wiring information from the chassis manufacturer regarding this circuit, as it would be supplied with the chassis.
Rich - Thank you for your time and trouble. I have been working and have not had time to check all the info all of you have given me. Thursday tomorrow I will have some time and hopefully I will find my problem.
Thanks all of you for your suggestions. The two solenoids in the back compartment sound like the 12v power disconnect which is actuated on or off by your 12v toggle switch somewhere in the coach and the boost solenoid which ties the coach battery in with the chassis battery for a extra boost when starting the engine.
Neither likely related to the issue. Like Brett mentioned, You have done your home work and know what you have and do not have. So when you call Winnebago you have information that will help pin down the issue. I remember seeing a circuit related to the starting circuit on Winnebago's drawings and no circuit information directly showing the circuit wiring.
Q: Ign sw fuse keeps blowing
The starter circuits have a relay that is energized when you turn the key to start. The key switch can not carry the current needed to power the starter. Often this relay is referred to as a Castle relay and the large contacts connect the starter solenoid to the large cables running to the chassis batteries.Posted by bizieJun 13, Featured Products from our Supporting Vendors. Activity Feed DSMtuners. Join the Community! Chat with others, create a build thread, post questions and answers.
Get involved! Logging in will also remove many of the advertisements, along with this notice. Jun 13, 1. I got a solid miles out of a 2. I reconnected it and redid some wiring for my gauges and now every time I get on my car I blow the ignition fuse and it leaves me dead in the water.
I can sit still and Rev all the way to the redline but as soon as I drive and put a high load on the engine I blow the ignition fuse. I've been checking for grounding hots for two days. I noticed that if I give the throttle a little blip and let off of it then my air fuel gauge goes dim for a few seconds then a few sec later it regains its brightness.
I have it connected to my red line ignition power line from my ecu. Along with my apexi tuner. Before I did this swap I was having a low voltage issue but it would go away when I tried the car, I was thinking my alt was going bad. Well I just put a new OEM in there and it's still doing the same thing. Gauges are often dim, sometimes light up for a sec and then dim out, until I rev high, then they light up great, but if I rev low and steady the af gauge will go dim.
Normally I would just deal with this issue but I can't even drive my car. I can putt around fine and great, but as soon as I load the car I blow my 30amp ignition fuse. Is there anything that could cause this besides a grounding positive? All my plugs are tight and all of my wires are covered, or seem to be. Any tips would be greatly appreciated. Buy at ExtremePSI.
Jun 13, 2. Not sure if this is related, but I had an issue where the little radio interference wire on my manifold came unplugged. Check that little wire. Jun 13, 3. Checked it twice. Thanks though! Jun 13, 4. Also blew a 40amp but 50 amp didn't blow. When it would have blown I got a huge misfire where it sounded terrible, like a loud fart, definitely not like a nice combustion.
I know I know, upgrading the fuse can start a fire, but I had to get the car home Now maybe I didn't need to stomp it to test the fuse but I have self control issues. That is why I need help diagnosing this problem, self control is very limited Jun 13, 5.
I also notice that when I cruise the af gauge will also go dim. When i rev it a little it. All seems like alt signs to me but it's brand new OEM.Why don't fictional characters say "goodbye" when they hang up a phone?
All Rights Reserved. The material on this site can not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with prior written permission of Multiply. Hottest Questions. Previously Viewed. Unanswered Questions. Auto Parts and Repairs. Wiki User IGN stands for ignition. DAB I do not know. It is the radio ignition fuse. Used on the power signal wire for the radio. Under the hood on the drivers side is the main fuse box.
Good luck! I have the same problem and have yet to confirm but that is what I was told. Which includes the power feed to the fuel system and engine igntion system.
To fix you have to trace through the circuit to every connection, disconnecting out feeds and testing as you go to see where the power feed gains continuity with the ground. Then you found the short which is blowing the AM1 fuse.
Fix the problem you found and then your good to go. Ign relay at main ign switch behind the steer.
There are two fuses marked RDO inside the fuse block located on the driver's side dash. The prefix "ign-" means fire. Your plugs are bad, you coil is out or you have bad plug wires. If all spark plug wires are not firing then it is the coil or a fuse in the fuse box labeled ign hope this helps B. IGN France International's population is Asked in Literature and Language What does ign stand for?
The stem "ign" as found in words like "igneous" or "ignite" comes from the Greek word for fire. Unhook the wires on the starter, replace the fuse, turn the ingnition key on as if you were going to start the car.
2009 - “IGN” fuse, ignition system Fuse issue
If the fuse does not blow, it is your starter. I just had this problem with a Dodge Stratus. I replaced the stater and it now works. Run a toggle switch from battery to ign. Asked in Ford Crown Victoria You can crank your 89 crownvictoria from your solenoid but not from your ignition What is the problem? Well, there could be a short between the ign. The contact in the ign. I would check the ign. Asked in Kawasaki Motorcycles 95 kawasaki gpz with no spark to any plugs.
Check your fuse, ign switch and kill switch. Asked in Word Games What are some of the ign words? Some ign words are: align, design, malign, assign, assignment, benign, and resign.Erisen Junior Member.
I was driving my Prius 50K Miles all in good working conditionand all of a sudden the vehicle stopped! Literally dead. I replaced with a spare, the car started and drove as usual. I called my mechanic and also Toyota Dealership Service, they both advised me to move on and come back for diagnostics if this problem keeps repeating it self. It was scary that car would be dead. I don't know what would have happened if this was in the middle of a freeway. The Toyota guy said he never heard about it, but he was so casual about it.
I have mixed feelings about going back on the road again. Is this pretty common to happen every once in a while, or shall I try to go and get the car diagnosed? Is there any place in the vehicle that you would recommend me to check electrical? There is nothing installed in the car in addition to what comes with it. It has a navigation. I am using belkin apple approve car charger to charge my phone. Start with making sure it was a 7. Do you recall anyhting you may have done just prior to the fuse blowing?
Bad combo. I did not own her since new. I purchased from the 1st owner, about 18 months ago at 35K miles, not we are at 50K. Now after work, I realized that AC stopped blowing not so cold, then kind a warm. Then the Hybrid dead warning message and all sorts of error messages came out. Anyway, car drove fine. The battery is still under warranty for another 7 months. I went to my mechanic and he ran the test. P0a93 was the error code. That's the inverter cooling system malfunction.